Wine was the reason and the opportunity for me to go to Colombia for the very first time.
Not exactly the Colombian production of it, that doesn’t seem to have a good reputation as said by a local wine shop seller:
“We don’t sell Colombian wine, because they don’t have quality” - as straight as that…
I went to Bogota representing an Argentine winery to negotiate their wine in this interesting market.
Colombia seemed to me very similar to Brazil; my beloved motherland; in many ways, included the wine trade.
Wine culture is recent in the country and it is easy to understand. In a nation with a poverty’s level reaching 50% of the total population, wine consume is not a priority.
Furthermore, for many decades, Colombia was isolated from anywhere else for the dangerous that illegal drugs business represented and, the ‘guerrilla’ who had caused so many pain in a war that Colombian people don’t want neither deserve it. In consequence, the gastronomy kept a very unique and indigenous style which is best paired with fresh fruit juices – yummy!
The most traditional use of wine is at Christmas time, when a very sweet version of it is offered with biscuits to anyone that visits your home at this period. Nice tradition!
However, wine drinking is on the rise and consumers are getting knowledgeable, in consequence seeking for better liquids.
As wine is not a habit, people are thirsty to learn and experiment. You can easily find wines from anywhere around the world, however, don’t expect them to be cheap. It is a high taxed product and you will pay your social contribution to consume it.
But, seriously talking, why do they have to make good wines if they have the best coffee in the world?
So don’t get it wrong: when they offer you a ‘tinto’ (word in Spanish for ‘red wine’), what Colombians mean for that is a small cup of strong black coffee.
Coffee is a chapter apart and I am going to write about the Colombian Black Gold shortly. Right now, I’m going to talk about the Cuisine that I had the opportunity to experiment in a short trip to Bogota.
I’m not a luxurious traveler; I always travel on bugged and love the experiences this kind of trip generates.
In consequence, what I mostly try out and love is the food that native people also appreciate.
It is easy to find out, just nicely ask the locals.
Bogota is the country’s capital, located 2600m above sea level in a valley of the Andes Mountains.
Not exactly the Colombian production of it, that doesn’t seem to have a good reputation as said by a local wine shop seller:
“We don’t sell Colombian wine, because they don’t have quality” - as straight as that…
I went to Bogota representing an Argentine winery to negotiate their wine in this interesting market.
Colombia seemed to me very similar to Brazil; my beloved motherland; in many ways, included the wine trade.
Wine culture is recent in the country and it is easy to understand. In a nation with a poverty’s level reaching 50% of the total population, wine consume is not a priority.
Furthermore, for many decades, Colombia was isolated from anywhere else for the dangerous that illegal drugs business represented and, the ‘guerrilla’ who had caused so many pain in a war that Colombian people don’t want neither deserve it. In consequence, the gastronomy kept a very unique and indigenous style which is best paired with fresh fruit juices – yummy!
The most traditional use of wine is at Christmas time, when a very sweet version of it is offered with biscuits to anyone that visits your home at this period. Nice tradition!
However, wine drinking is on the rise and consumers are getting knowledgeable, in consequence seeking for better liquids.
As wine is not a habit, people are thirsty to learn and experiment. You can easily find wines from anywhere around the world, however, don’t expect them to be cheap. It is a high taxed product and you will pay your social contribution to consume it.
But, seriously talking, why do they have to make good wines if they have the best coffee in the world?
So don’t get it wrong: when they offer you a ‘tinto’ (word in Spanish for ‘red wine’), what Colombians mean for that is a small cup of strong black coffee.
Coffee is a chapter apart and I am going to write about the Colombian Black Gold shortly. Right now, I’m going to talk about the Cuisine that I had the opportunity to experiment in a short trip to Bogota.
I’m not a luxurious traveler; I always travel on bugged and love the experiences this kind of trip generates.
In consequence, what I mostly try out and love is the food that native people also appreciate.
It is easy to find out, just nicely ask the locals.
Bogota is the country’s capital, located 2600m above sea level in a valley of the Andes Mountains.
It was founded in the year of 1538 and is full of history and treasures to be found, mainly on its oldest part, called La Candelaria.
I stayed two days in this beautiful area, in hostel on the top of a hill, with a great breakfast that included exotic and delicious fruits.
I stayed two days in this beautiful area, in hostel on the top of a hill, with a great breakfast that included exotic and delicious fruits.
Most of the buildings in La Candelaria are very well preserved and walking on the streets is like taking part in a vintage film.
That’s what I did the most: walking, sightseeing… and museum visits were on the menu as well - The Museum of Gold is one to not be missed.
As I was on the neighborhood on Saturday and Sunday, I got a taste of how locals entertain themselves on weekends. That includes a lot of outdoor family and friends get together. They seem to love eating street food as much as I do.
So wherever I found a queue on the streets I went to check out what the hunger was about.
Here it goes: a compilation of my experience on foodie photos and recipes searched - in case you want to try them at home.
My first contact with the Colombian cuisine wasn’t the best as, unfortunately, the dish was cold. I didn’t complain on that occasion because I though that might be the way locals have it – strange people are tourists…
However that woke up my curiosity to try further!
'Ajiaco* Santafereño' (Santafereño – originated from Santa Fe de Bogota or just Bogota) and a ‘lulo’ fresh juice.
*Ajiaco is basically chicken soup with different sort of potatoes, corn, served with rice, avocado, capers and cream cheese.
Next try was more successful: a sweet snack called 'Oblea', which is a kind of sandwich of an ice-cream-cone-sort-of-biscuit that can be filled in with ‘arequipe’ (milk caramel) or loads of other things… I kept it simple and asked for one with ‘arequipe’ and desiccated coconut – messy to eat, but tasty.
I was teased by aromas, colors, looks... many times while sightseeing on the streets of Bogota.
Sometimes the street-food and me played a kind of hide-and-seek game, because I saw them once thinking to come back latter to try, but when I was ready to have them, they were not there any more… food on the move, I would say.
One of those was de ‘Arepa de Queso’, that I saw being served as a breakfast snack on a bar, early morning Saturday and then the bar was never open again… as long as I was there.
Fortunately, I found it again in a very good version paired with ‘Agua de Panela’, which is a drink of unrefined sugar, hot water, lemon ... and plenty of calories.
Sometimes the street-food and me played a kind of hide-and-seek game, because I saw them once thinking to come back latter to try, but when I was ready to have them, they were not there any more… food on the move, I would say.
One of those was de ‘Arepa de Queso’, that I saw being served as a breakfast snack on a bar, early morning Saturday and then the bar was never open again… as long as I was there.
Fortunately, I found it again in a very good version paired with ‘Agua de Panela’, which is a drink of unrefined sugar, hot water, lemon ... and plenty of calories.
Another one was a intriguing drink with a minty smell… that I had to wait to get... When I finally found it again, I was surprised to see people queuing to buy… herbal tea! Although, it wasn’t a regular one: you could include honey, lemon juice and anis liquor – of course I had them all. It’s called 'Agua Aromática' (try a cup of lemon balm or citrus tea or mint or chamomile or all of them together)
Keeping on the beverage side, I finally tasted a very much talked about 'Chicha'*!
*Chicha is a formerly forbidden strong alcoholic beverage originally made by the indigenous peoples of the Andes. It can be prepared from virtually everything, but is typically made from corn.
The one I tried was still fermenting… I could say it was a full-filling experiment.
In addition, I tried all strange drinks I found on display – one day I may regret being so experimental...
The second one was 'Masato' - it is very similar to Chicha, but less fermented.
Finally, I tasted 'Guarapo', which is made from various fruits, kept in a large ceramic jar and left to ferment for about 2 months. Within that time, 'panela' is added into the liquid to makes the alcohol stronger. Grapes and pineapple are typically used.
I needed a break of being so food adventurous and sat for a while looking the people pass by... then it was already getting dark and, it means time to dine!
I went to a cozy bistro to try I highly recommend traditional dish: 'Tamales'.
Tamales* is typical of many Andean countries.
*Tamales: chicken, pork, rice and vegetables mix, steamed in banana leaves
That was a delicious and weird experience as, habitually, you don’t have it on its own but, with hot chocolate, which come with bread and cheese – the last not to spread on the bread but to plunge into the chocolate (that was the weird part).
Ok, by that time I was already full and didn’t eat anything else - on that day…
I moved to another part of town, called El Retiro, to spend more three days in the city and… work!
In El Retiro I didn’t feel like going to a proper restaurant alone. So, I had a more ‘shopping mall’ sort of experience.
But, trust me; you can have proper food even on this sort of place.
First day there I was so busy that I didn’t have lunch, what was a good thing to detoxify.
Then I was ready again…
I found a restaurant with yummy traditional food that I called twice.
The first lunch there was a 'Cazuelita Paisa'. It comes with rice, ground beef, 'tajada'*, chorizo, pork rind, avocado, beans, eggs, chips, all in one pot!!
*The tajada is a typical food of the Caribbean countries, especially Venezuela and Colombia, and some West Indies. It consists of ripe banana cut into large slices fried in hot oil. They can be eaten as an accompaniment to other dishes or alone, covered with cheese or without any addition - As you can read, I have all addition possible.
Ok, by that time I was already full and didn’t eat anything else - on that day…
I moved to another part of town, called El Retiro, to spend more three days in the city and… work!
In El Retiro I didn’t feel like going to a proper restaurant alone. So, I had a more ‘shopping mall’ sort of experience.
But, trust me; you can have proper food even on this sort of place.
First day there I was so busy that I didn’t have lunch, what was a good thing to detoxify.
Then I was ready again…
I found a restaurant with yummy traditional food that I called twice.
The first lunch there was a 'Cazuelita Paisa'. It comes with rice, ground beef, 'tajada'*, chorizo, pork rind, avocado, beans, eggs, chips, all in one pot!!
*The tajada is a typical food of the Caribbean countries, especially Venezuela and Colombia, and some West Indies. It consists of ripe banana cut into large slices fried in hot oil. They can be eaten as an accompaniment to other dishes or alone, covered with cheese or without any addition - As you can read, I have all addition possible.
On the second day, my lunch was a reconciliation with the Ajiaco Santafereño, which I have previously had and it was a kind of cold… Then, it was absolutely delicious and warm!
As you can guess, I am on diet since back from my trip, but it was worth it! I loved the experience and… as I haven’t tried the Green Plantain Chips; sold everywhere in town; I think I should be back some day…
Next testimony is going to be liquid: coffee!
By for now…
Regards,
Marcia Amaral
Search of Information:
http://www.mycolombianrecipes.com/
http://amparo.e-monsite.com/
http://www.bogota-dc.com/
http://gosouthamerica.about.com
http://southamericanfood.about.com
As you can guess, I am on diet since back from my trip, but it was worth it! I loved the experience and… as I haven’t tried the Green Plantain Chips; sold everywhere in town; I think I should be back some day…
Next testimony is going to be liquid: coffee!
By for now…
Regards,
Marcia Amaral
Search of Information:
http://www.mycolombianrecipes.com/
http://amparo.e-monsite.com/
http://www.bogota-dc.com/
http://gosouthamerica.about.com
http://southamericanfood.about.com