Argentina I - Round the Wine World Trip, 2007

What follows in the coming reports and pictures is exactly what is includes in my previous blog http://wineworld.spaces.live.com/

The idea of bringing the reports to new space is mainly to keep the information in only one place. I have not done any changes to the original posts, because I believe that every experience has its particular moment.

Perhaps, today I would have other opinion on some issues, but what I reproduce here belongs to that time.

In this Part 3, I report my experience in Buenos Aires, on March 2007.

NATIONAL PRIDE

The wine is one of the national prides of Argentina. The natives defend it with the same enthusiasm as any other subject of passion. They appreciate wine and they do consume it. Although the consume has declined in the last decades (from 90 litres in the decade of 70 to 30 litres in the current days) when the Argentineans left the tradition beside in exchange for other products with great appeal the young public, such as beer and Coca-Cola - it was a substitute for the wine that was consumed with the carbonate water combination, to smooth the heavy style the wine had. With the reduction of internal consume combined with the economic crisis, Argentine grape growing weakened and the solution was to find a gap in the international market. At that moment, beginning of years 90, Argentinean wine did not suit the foreign taste and the solution was to shape the national industry to international standards. 1992 is a year known as when the wine industry had a big turn, when concepts deeply changed and started a revolution in the national industry, combined with a period of economic stabilization and external investments. Following this new concept, in 1995, the producers had pulled out 15000 hectares of hybrid grapes, replacing in its place 7700 hectares of chaste nobler, of the family Vitis Vinifera. Afterwards the market received good Argentinean whites from casts as Chardonnay and Torrontes and, also ones from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and, especially Malbec, this last one had a spectacular development, becoming a "star" of the Argentine production and its mark.

PORTEÑA'S EXPERIENCE

Travel independently has been a good experience. As I do not have a script completely established, I have flexibility to adapt my plans and go with the flow. In result, as I do not make much expectation - I always have good surprises. I was not sure Buenos Aires could add anything in my studies. I started searching information on the Internet about courses or anything related to, I found out of one "charla" about perspectives of sommelier career at the "Centro de Enologos de Buenos Aires" (C.E.B.A.), which I thought could be interesting and it could be a good chance to hear a little from the experts.

The C.E.B.A. initiated its activity in 1945 and since then it has been compromised on spreading professional knowledge about wine and, since 2003 helping to develop the career of sommelier.

It was an informal talk, on which the instructors of the center (experienced professionals) and pupils in potential had participated. It was also an excellent chance to learn how Argentineans are related to wine, its production and commercialization.

I was the only foreigner in the group what made me a focus of curiosity. I was invited to join in a course in the following day that would approach the production of "artisan" wine. I adored the idea to have my "hands on".

To finish the event in a proper way, we tasted some wine made from the very own C.E.BA. and arranged the details for the next day.

WINE MAKING

The C.E.B.A. keeps a small winery in the city of Guillón Luis, close to Buenos Aires, where they produce wines 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and blend of Sauvignon Blanc - Chenin with grapes grown in General Alvear in the Provínicia de Mendoza. This was the place of my first course related to wine in the South America and where we were received by a kind 97-years-old gentleman who is landlord of the place and he grants part of this to C.E.B.A. in order to precede the alchemy of wine making. Don Luis, as he is called, was an adorable host and made us feel at home. The group was small, just 3 of us having the lesson, leaded by our instructor, Juan, who shared his experience and passion for the subject. As the group was small, the environment relaxed and welcoming, we had the chance to participate and clear all doubts related.

The course gave to me a more scientific vision of the wine production, including relating the components that involve the elaboration process all its controls and measures, necessaries to give balance and one "hand" to the natural process. We all follow in theory the process related with the production since the preparation of the winery to receive the grapes until the result of the process is bottled as wine. Before to head for a more practical experience, it was time for lunch and we were invited to share the meal and wine with other members of this community. Our lunch and wine, from the propriety, were excellent and, combined with the laid back style of the group it made an excellent experience of the Argentinean hospitality. During a chat on wine and vineyards we talked of preferences, trends, market and everything related to the subject that all had demonstrated enjoy the same.

This was my first experience sharing a table where everyone also shares the passion for the wine and I felt myself very well among them. After the lunch, we initiate the practical part of the course:

1) Crushing the bunch of grapes and separating theirs stalks from them – the grapes are inserted in a machine, where the grapes are jammed by coils and then these are removed, and the juice (must) is stored in a stainless steel cylinder;

2) Addition of yeast to the must – the grape has natural yeast to start fermentation in its skin. In order to help this process some cultivated yeast can be added.

The process that follows is the Fermentation, which is usually completed in 4 the 7 days, saying that, we were not able to follow the process in full.

I left my "eno-immersion" sure that in order to produce a good wine, many factors are involved, but if you are committed and involved with the business, you are half way – to be an enthusiast about wine is a must not a plus.

FAREWELL TO HERMANAS LAND

Beyond the production experience, I also tasted some samples of national wines, easily find at any corner. Between them, I have tried the national emblem Malbec - a grape that is found in almost everywhere in Argentina territory and is softer in tannin than I had imagined; Sauvignon Blanc – which has more aromas of grass and asparagus and less of tropical fruits - so associated to New World wines; Pinot Noir - from Patagonia, a place that is turning to be a good producer for the variety.

It has a great variety of available wines in the market, the great majority of Mendoza, and the prices are varied, however it is easy to find wine of good quality for excellent prices. Argentina presents some favorable conditions for a cheap production of wine and presents an excellent relation cost-benefit for the purchaser, what is a good selling point.

It is the currently the fourth biggest producer in the world, with 1.5 billion liters per year – this is one of the reasons why it is a good example to be observed.




Cheers,
Marcia Amaral