What follows in the coming reports and pictures is exactly what is includes in my previous blog http://wineworld.spaces.live.com/
The idea of bringing the reports to new space is mainly to keep the information in only one place. I have not done any changes to the original posts, because I believe that every experience has its particular moment.
Perhaps, today I would have other opinion on some issues, but what I reproduce here belongs to that time.
In this Part 2, I report my experience in California on January 2007.
CALIFORNIA, USA
The year just started, however, I have the feeling that I already reached great things.
2007 is the year where my project gets to an important phase, practical and decisive. It is obvious that traveling, tasting wine, knowing new cultures sound very amusing, and – trust me – they are! But I assumed a ‘self’ commitment to make this experience a personal and professional development, which I take very seriously.
This first stage could not have been better. Full of surprises: California delighted me.
I arrived in San Francisco on the 11th of January, planning to stay there for 7 days and later, to continue the trip to New York, for one more week - this then as a “usual tourist”.
I ended up longer than the expected in California, reducing my visit to the side American east for 3 days. The final result pleased me, because if found out that the west has more to offer - of what really it interests me.
The United States have great producers of wine and also a huge market. There is space for ‘boutique wine’ and also the wines produced in large scale, for great corporations - who use new technologies, controlled irrigation and have an ambitious business point of view and have loyal consumers for the good wines that they produce with an reasonable price. Many of them are pretty good. However, I was more interested in those which represented to the ‘soul of the Californian wine’.
The country does not has a classification system, but it possess AVAs (American Viticulture Areas), created in 1983, which divide landmarks for region, topography, climate, but it does not have restriction to the amount of production or type of cultivated variety.
The area located to the north of San Francisco is known as Wine Country, including Sonoma, Napa Valley and its subdivisions.
Mendocino, by the north of Sonoma, is also an important region and, to the east of Mendocino and north of Napa Valley the district of Lake is situated, which is gaining reputation.
The most important subdivisions of Napa are: Carneros, Napa County, Napa Valley, Oakville, Rutherford, St. Helena, Clistoga, Spring Mountain District, Stags Leap District and Wild Horse Valley.
Sonoma is the place of birth of the Californian wine, however Napa is better known. Part of the fame originated in the recognition of the quality of its wines - that many had twisted the nose (mainly French noses), when, in 1976 they won an international competition against the most traditional wines. Yes, they had been judged better than French wines - something unbelievable for that time. This generated a revolution for wines of the "New World" - thus called the countries where the viniculture is relatively new, such as United States, Argentina, Chile, Africa of the South, Australia and New Zealand. Opening the doors to a market, that started to try with curiosity, wines from a non-conventional places.
The subject is still controversial and, according to Decanter News, it will be the subject of a film to be released still this year.
I will approach the subject again, in the story of the visit to the Stags' Leap Winery - one of the involved wineries.
CALIFORNIAN WAY OF LIFE
My very first visit to a winery in California was in a "native style”. I had the chance to not only know the enterprise as well as the involved people in it.
Flavio; a Brazilian friend who lives in California to many years and already into the Californian way of life (which is very different to the American one in my point o view…); introduced me to Caroline Frey.
Caroline works in the businesses of the family and invited us to visit it and, kindly opened the doors of the property to show it.
Frey Vineyards was established in 1980 for the parents of Caroline (Paul and Beba Frey), good part of the family works in the property and it is an example of successful business. They produce organic¹ (pioneers in organic wine production in the country) and biodynamic² certified wines, if a good distribution in the market and competitive prices.
Notes:
¹ For the organic classification (considering the new USDA National Organic Program), the wine has to be made entirely from grapes proceeding from organic vineyards and cannot contain additives, such as citric acids and sulfites. Sulfites have been used as preservatives and antirust of the production and vinification of the grape since the Roman Empire. For not containing added sulfites, organic wines are more likely to oxidation and degradation that the majority of wines, particularly if they are exposed to high temperatures.
² The Biodynamic method, initiated for the German philosopher Rudolf Steiner in 1924, has 'a holistic' approach, that consists of grape growing in harmony and respect the environment - Demeter is the institution responsible for the certification in the U.S.A.
The property is situated 140 miles of San Francisco, in Redwood Valley - Mendocino, having above of it the spring of the Russian River - important river that influences the local climate and it is a name of one of the AVAs.
We arrived little before the sunset and went straight to "explore" the place. The property did not seem big and it was well organized. It gives the idea of a family business where everyone is committed and proud of it.
Caroline is a charismatic person, who shows great enthusiasm for everything, including her enrollment in the business of the family. She lives harmoniously with Nature - as well as all its family and friends – as a result, to have a organic and biodynamic culture is a natural option – very suitable to the Californian style as well.
She showed us the vineyards, winery, tasting room and, kindly gave some bottles of wine for us. We accepted her invitation to join them for dinner.
We meet Caroline’s sister and friends and chatted about almost anything, always with the company of Carolina’s favorite: Chardonnay (the country’s favorite wine, apparently).
The company was excellent, the chat great, the food a delight (vegetarian, to please the great majority) and the wine - I must admit - very good! With a brief period of aging in barrels of oak, the Chardonnay (2005) remembers vanilla and is a good representative of the variety, in a very American style to make it and to appreciate it.
I had the opportunity to learn how engaged the locals are with the wine business and its sustainable development, always compromised with quality and attend to trends, technology and market.
We were gifted with some of the Frey’s: Syrah 2005; White Zinfandel 2005; Sauvignon Blanc 2005; Sangiovese 2004; Gewurztraminer 2005 and Petite Shiraz 2004, which is growing in importance in the American market – Petite Shiraz is a grape of misty identity, it seems to have more than one grape variety a involved in its origin; it is source of tannin in wines, many times mixed to the less strong Zinfandel (cast that it is registered mark of the country).
It was a very pleasant visit and I came back hugely happy to San Francisco for meeting very genuine and friendly people with which I share interest for wine, perhaps, in different levels, but similar intensity for sure.
ENOTOURISM
California is the 4th biggest producer of wine of the world, behind only of France, Italy and Spain. 90% of this production is consumed inside the United States. As the internal demand is high, the prices in general are raised and they are not very competitive in the external market. 'Wine Clubs' are popular and they offer exclusive promotions to the members, which pay in advance to join them.
In almost all California wine is produced, from Mexico to the Oregon, since mountains of Sierra Nevada to the Pacific Ocean, it can be found vineyards and wineries. The desert seems to be the only exception.
With a wealthy economy (California would be 5th richest country if it was independent from USA), a modern position in relation of many subjects and a conscientious preservation of its history, California is a state that remembers the past, enjoys the present with an eye on the future.
All kind of service is very good, showing the consciousness about the money it generates associated to the friendly and cordial attitude that the Californians have - in its great majority.
All of these combined with a “Mediterranean style” climate makes this a place of destination for many foreigners and many… many Americans. There is a big diversity of tourist attraction, where all find one reason to visit it, at least.
Enotourism is one of the options and for many wineries it is an important activity for their trade market, considering that most of the small proprieties sell the production directly to consumers.
The visits can be made individually or in a group - in the great majority organized by travel agencies. The last one was my first option to explore the Wine Country.
The 17th of January was the day of my excursion to the wineries with the Extranomical Adventures, Inc.; an agency that organizes visits in small groups (what considered ideal, therefore it prevented a mass of people and it was cheaper than to rent limousine - option of many).
The group was small and all of the 11 people seem to be over 30 years old. Except myself, they were traveling in couples, the majority Americans; however the crew had Australians and Scottish.
VIANSA WINERY
The first visit was to the Viansa Winery in the region of Carneros, no longer than one hour away from San Francisco.
Because of the proximity to the Bay of San Francisco, the fog of the morning and the cold breezes of the afternoon are an influence in the climate of Carneros. The landscape of Carnero is low and dense. Two types of ground are present: clay and loam. These ground tend to influence in the vigor of the vines and to supply with the necessary nutrients without growing in excess.
The great stars of Carneros are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
As well as many enterprises Viansa has its roots in a distant land and is owned by Italian immigrant’s family who once dreamed of America making their dream to come true. They seem to have made it.
You have the impression of being in an Italian Villa and at Viansa the importance of the wine as a complement to food is, literally, visible. As much as wine, the place also produces, jellies, salsas, gravies that are sold in the market where the bar for degustation is located. In addiction, the Wine Menu always suggests a good paring with the Shop List.
After a brief introduction on the place, its history and activity, we visited the cellar where the wines mature. Afterwards, we went straight to the bar to taste 4 wines chosen for the house, all of them very high in alcohol:
1) 2005 - Arneis - US$ 22.50 (14.3% ABV)
Arneis is the grape variety originaly from the region of Piemont, in Italy. Rarely found in California. It presents a coloration yellow-lemon and has aromas of kiwi, rasp and ripe pineapple.
2) 2004 - Prindelo, Sonoma County – US$ 35 (15,5% ABV)
It showed a purple color. This is a cut wine, with blackberry aroma. In the mouth it is dry and has chocolate tones.
3) 2005 - Imbianco – US$ 11 (15,6% ABV)
Wine for dessert, made from 99% of the grape Aleatico and 1% of the Teroldigo, has a delicate flavor of strawberries and bergamot.
4) 2005 - "Pocamio" Aleatico – US$ 19.50 (14,5% ABV)
Aleatico is a rare varietal. Off-Dry, with sharp aroma of strawberry and blackberry. It is a soft wine, ready to drink.
I was intrigued with the wines off-dry and sweet, because they had high level of alcohol. So then, I asked the sommeliére if they used Chapitalization, which was answered me vagely that they interrupted the fermentation process, leaving residual sugar. Well, as the great majority of the wines it presents superior alcoholic graduation 14% of the volume, it gave me the impression that the grapes of the property produce a natural sugar out of ordinary…
Before jumping on the car, I could observe the employees of the property (that they are contracted exclusively for this seasonal service), doing the winter cutting.
MADONNA ESTATE
The second visit was to the Madonna Estate also in Carneros. This establishment; in its fourth generation of a family descending of Italians, in the United States since 1913; produces organic wines and has practice a system non-conventional for the region of California: Dry Farming. In this system irrigation is not used - necessary in the region due to low rainfall level. The irrigation is only used in the first year of growth of the vine and later he is suspended, causing to a "stress" of the plant that, in water search in the subsoil, concentrates the flavors in the grape, resulting in very small berries. To facilitate the process, 'St George' rootstock is used, which is not only resistant to drought but also to the Phylloxera.
The beginning of the visit was in the area where the wines are stored to rest in barrels of oak (American or French, depending on you influence them wanted in the wine). While our guide - an experienced expert of the subject - explained the system of production of the winery, another employee filled up the barrels with wine, necessary due the natural process of evaporation that the wine suffers.
An enlightening commentary was in relation to the expression “Estate" in the labels of the wines, that it identifies a product whose grapes are exclusively grown in the property.
The wines, good examples of the quality that a organic production can offer, were enjoined in the room reserved for it and also where the shop is located (following the model of the great majority of the wineries):
1) 2004 - Estate Chardonnay - USS 24.50
Fermented in barrels of French oak, this wine has a period of rest in its sediment (sur lie), presenting a creamy sensation in the mouth and aromas of pear and apple.
2) 2004 - Estate Pinot Noir - USS 28.50
The wine has aging of nine months in barrels of oak that is noticed in the mouth, having an aroma of red fruits.
3) 2001 - Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - USS 34.00
The product has its crushing and fermentation in stainless steel tanks and after, ages in barrels of oak for 18 months. It presents blackberry aromas, cassis and vanilla.
4) 2005 - Estate Riesling - USS 21.00
A wine to be drunk young that presents floral aromas with peach characteristics, pear and honey.
From a total of 13 wines in the actual list, 2 had already been completely sold out and 9 were exclusively for sales directly in the property, remaining 2 for external sale - with addition of costs of taxes and transport.
KIRKLAND RANCH WINERY
Kirkland is a property in Napa Valley that reminds the "old west" style. The owners, who were farmers before discovering the great opportunity for grape growing could be in California, kept the "cowboy" style in the propriety with stuffed animals ‘decorating’ the tasting room. As you can work out, they are not organic growers neither biodynamic fans.
In a style “straight forward”, we were direct to the tasting room. The very little I learnt about the property was from the information told by our driver-guide and, for the visitation (self-guided) into the corridors of the main building where, between photos from the farming past, the windows showed a modern winery.
The history of the Kirkland is similar to many others in the region, where farmers and or other high capital holders had glimpsed the vitiviniculture potential of the region and invested money and effort to build a new business.
High investment is a local characteristic, due the amount of money to be invested and the long term return in profits.
To establish a wine business in the "new west" is necessary to be "riding", not a horse, but loads of money.
The wines presented were:
1) 2003 - Kirkland Ranch Chardonnay Napa Valley - US$ 20.00
It is one Estate wine that ages 12 months in barrels of oak and rests in its residues resulting in a wine with flavor of vanilla and citric aromas and apple.
2) 2002 - Kirkland Rach Sangiovese Napa Valley - USS 20.00
Is a blended wine (90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot). It receives 24 months from oak and presents a cured aroma and spices. Its color is not deep and is light in tannins.
3) NV Agape Late Harvest Wine Napa Valley - USS 40.00
Is a dessert wine, made from grapes Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc affected by ' noble rot ', It has more than one year blended (non-vintage). It has a good balance and it presents tropical aromas of ripe peach, pineapple and fruits.
4) 2002 - Kirkland Ranch Estate Syrah - USS 30.00
It is aged by 20 months in barrels. It is an intense wine in aromas and flavors, with characteristics of spices, chocolate and vanilla.
5) 2002 - Kirkland Ranch Pinot Noir Napa Valley - US$ 32.50
This wine was a personal choice and it did not disappoint. It is a good unit of the variety, with aroma of plums and in the mouth it presents cherry with a vanilla finishing, spices and wood.
After this visit we finished our day in the Wine Country and, the group - satisfied with the experience - returned to San Francisco after 7 hours of trip.
A BEAUTIFUL DAY
January, 20; a sunny Saturday (no surprise and completely joy) with mild climate for an unexpectedly cold winter; I headed again to the Wine Country to carry out he visits that had made me to delay my ticket, booked to leave San Francisco days ago.
Booked visits in 2 wineries, one at 11.30h and another one two hours later, I also had time to include another one after those and, to have a picnic for lunch, always in the company of my Brazilian friend Flavio.
I cautiously chose the places that I would like to visit in my last day in California.
The first one was a reference from Alder; whose they keep excellent blog on wines; named Piña Cellars - among others wineries.
The second winery was for historical reasons: Stags' Leap Winery.
And last but not least, was a decision made on the day after an invitation from a couple that visited Piña at the same time we did and worked occasionally at Robert Sinskey Vineyards.
A booking is highly recommended to avoid disappointment. Some establishments do not charge the visit or tasting, however, in this in case one expects that you buy product in exchange, which can be expensive in comparison to the other wineries.
The wineries that I visited are in the Silverado Trail where more than 35 properties are spread for the highway that runs parallel with the highway "29".
Around 25 different varieties are cultivated in the region, where Cabernet Sauvignon the main star. You can see well known names from the highway, such as Mumm; Clos Du Val and Stag's Leap.
The scenery is pretty, it has its West raised with some rocks from a time where volcanoes existed in the region and the temperature has 10° of difference between the day and the night.
PIÑA CELLARS
We were welcomed in the winery for a young gentleman, who already has a lot of experience in the area and currently studies viniculture, with projects to have an work experience South Africa.
Piña is a family business; however it has an interest to bring young professionals from the market - as in the case of our host - because they bring knowledge and experiences with them.
Piña has its activities divided: one for the vineyard and another one to the winery, with different administration and each one with its proper employees. They aim to focus the necessary attention to each one in particular.
The visit initiated with tasting of units of its excellent Cabernet Sauvignon: 2004, 2005 and 2006 - being the two last ones extracted directly from the barrels. It was incredible to taste the good balance that the wine has, with rare smooth tannin for such young wine. This is a peculiarity of this region of Napa Valley and is very well accepted.
The visit could summarize it this - what it was not bad - however; as usually it happens when a genuine interest for the subject is demonstrated; it was beyond and we has an extra "tour" in the property in the company of our guide who answered to my doubts and curiosities (always, always many).
Piña has a production relatively small e thus wants to remain itself, preserving the quality of its products.
I bought a unit of the Cabernet Sauvignon (2004) that was not cheap (US$ 74) and represented well the idea of boutique wine.
The visit delayed more than we first planed and it was already time to go. Lunch break, we looked for a place for our picnic and had it in that amazing Valley of Napa.
STAGS' LEAP WINERY
There is a legend which says that a stag ran away from aboriginals who chased it on the rocky mounts that make background scenery at Stags' Leap leaped from one rock to another leaving the hunters behind.
This is one of the versions for the origin of the name of this amazing place in Napa Valley. So valuable name that there was legal battle for the rights to use this name.
This is the field which owns the vines that produced the Stag’s Leap (1973, Cabernet Sauvignon) that in the "1976 Paris Wine Tasting" faced Boudreaux in the famous competition.
The Frenchmen, not convinced of the Californian quality, argued that their wines had not reached their best, because those wines needed some years to soften tannins - It is a Californian natural characteristic for having a good balance of tannins, even in their early ages.
To clarify any injustice to the Vin de Bordeaux, another competition with blind taste was carried after 30 years later and, the winner of 2006 was: oui, oui... the Californians.
The property, full of history and stories, was sold partially later one. The new owner got a large and productive propriety and... the original name. To the old owner the famous land was left, the moral right to use the name and a fight for the right to the use it.
The decision was that both could use the name, however, in different forms: the original is called Stag's Leap Wine Cellars and the new one Stags' Leap Winery. I visited the winery of the new proprietor however, oldest, where all original winery’s structure was restored - preserving its characteristics - and one another new was added.
We were welcomed in a large and fancy room where our guide counted a little of the history of the place and where we tried 4 samples of its wines:
1) 2005 - Napa Valley Viogner - US$25
Citric aromas and flavors with peach characteristics.
2) 2005 - Napa Valley Chardonnay – US$ 28
High acidity with notes of orange and cantaloupes, vanilla and clove in the finishing.
3) 2003 - Napa Valley Merlot – US$ 31
Vibrant aroma of black berries, cacao, nutmeg and vanilla.
4) Ne Cede Malis, Rhone Blend – US$ 75
Aroma of black berries and at the end remembers orange peel.
We ended the visit exploring the place, with a glass of wine in hand while the sun was getting ready to disappear in the horizon. What a day! And, I had not finished yet...
ROBERT SINSKEY VINEYARDS
During the tasting to the Piña Cellars, with very little visitors sharing the moment with us, we had the privilege of a pleasant company of a couple (she is Brazilian and he is American), who we talked and shared our views about wine’s passion with and then, they invited us to visit them in a neighbor winery where they work occasionally.
As a result we discovered the Robert Sinskey Vineyards, a producer of excellent organic wines, which originally intended to focus its attention exclusively to the Pinot Noir, however, it surroundings of the land cried out (as the same proprietor it declares) and it surrendered to the king of the region: Cabernet Sauvignon.
Hopefully it continues producing both, among other varieties - all organic, not only for the reason of being eco-friendly but also for believing that these vineyards produce better wines and with more vibrant flavors. I also believe it: their Pinot Noir was the best I have ever tried!
The environment is informal and extremely pleasant, where you feel like between old mates. In the tasting bar we had the perfect match with canapés, prepared for the wife of the proprietor, Maria Helm Sinskey, who is the director of culinary in the business, author of the book "The Vineyard Kitchen", and one great chef.
Many of the people who assist in the 'bar' of the winery, make it now and then and have other activities also related to the wine. Between a chat, a sip of wine, one canapé, the time was passing and the bar closed, then it was hour to go, again.
We say farewell to our 'new-old-mates' and took our way back to San Francisco. The visit was so pleasant that I forgot to write down information about the wines we tasted (Pinot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc), however, I still remember the good balance, aromas and fruits that had sailed in my mouth. They were left as a souvenir in my memory.
I left California in the next day, early in the morning to my flight for New York. I did not have time to enjoy the sunny Sunday; however, I carried with me all good feelings and impression that California gave me.
I learnt that one cannot judge something without knowing it or… tasting it.
Nice to meet you, California!
Cheers,
Marcia Amaral
The idea of bringing the reports to new space is mainly to keep the information in only one place. I have not done any changes to the original posts, because I believe that every experience has its particular moment.
Perhaps, today I would have other opinion on some issues, but what I reproduce here belongs to that time.
In this Part 2, I report my experience in California on January 2007.
CALIFORNIA, USA
The year just started, however, I have the feeling that I already reached great things.
2007 is the year where my project gets to an important phase, practical and decisive. It is obvious that traveling, tasting wine, knowing new cultures sound very amusing, and – trust me – they are! But I assumed a ‘self’ commitment to make this experience a personal and professional development, which I take very seriously.
This first stage could not have been better. Full of surprises: California delighted me.
I arrived in San Francisco on the 11th of January, planning to stay there for 7 days and later, to continue the trip to New York, for one more week - this then as a “usual tourist”.
I ended up longer than the expected in California, reducing my visit to the side American east for 3 days. The final result pleased me, because if found out that the west has more to offer - of what really it interests me.
The United States have great producers of wine and also a huge market. There is space for ‘boutique wine’ and also the wines produced in large scale, for great corporations - who use new technologies, controlled irrigation and have an ambitious business point of view and have loyal consumers for the good wines that they produce with an reasonable price. Many of them are pretty good. However, I was more interested in those which represented to the ‘soul of the Californian wine’.
The country does not has a classification system, but it possess AVAs (American Viticulture Areas), created in 1983, which divide landmarks for region, topography, climate, but it does not have restriction to the amount of production or type of cultivated variety.
The area located to the north of San Francisco is known as Wine Country, including Sonoma, Napa Valley and its subdivisions.
Mendocino, by the north of Sonoma, is also an important region and, to the east of Mendocino and north of Napa Valley the district of Lake is situated, which is gaining reputation.
The most important subdivisions of Napa are: Carneros, Napa County, Napa Valley, Oakville, Rutherford, St. Helena, Clistoga, Spring Mountain District, Stags Leap District and Wild Horse Valley.
Sonoma is the place of birth of the Californian wine, however Napa is better known. Part of the fame originated in the recognition of the quality of its wines - that many had twisted the nose (mainly French noses), when, in 1976 they won an international competition against the most traditional wines. Yes, they had been judged better than French wines - something unbelievable for that time. This generated a revolution for wines of the "New World" - thus called the countries where the viniculture is relatively new, such as United States, Argentina, Chile, Africa of the South, Australia and New Zealand. Opening the doors to a market, that started to try with curiosity, wines from a non-conventional places.
The subject is still controversial and, according to Decanter News, it will be the subject of a film to be released still this year.
I will approach the subject again, in the story of the visit to the Stags' Leap Winery - one of the involved wineries.
CALIFORNIAN WAY OF LIFE
My very first visit to a winery in California was in a "native style”. I had the chance to not only know the enterprise as well as the involved people in it.
Flavio; a Brazilian friend who lives in California to many years and already into the Californian way of life (which is very different to the American one in my point o view…); introduced me to Caroline Frey.
Caroline works in the businesses of the family and invited us to visit it and, kindly opened the doors of the property to show it.
Frey Vineyards was established in 1980 for the parents of Caroline (Paul and Beba Frey), good part of the family works in the property and it is an example of successful business. They produce organic¹ (pioneers in organic wine production in the country) and biodynamic² certified wines, if a good distribution in the market and competitive prices.
Notes:
¹ For the organic classification (considering the new USDA National Organic Program), the wine has to be made entirely from grapes proceeding from organic vineyards and cannot contain additives, such as citric acids and sulfites. Sulfites have been used as preservatives and antirust of the production and vinification of the grape since the Roman Empire. For not containing added sulfites, organic wines are more likely to oxidation and degradation that the majority of wines, particularly if they are exposed to high temperatures.
² The Biodynamic method, initiated for the German philosopher Rudolf Steiner in 1924, has 'a holistic' approach, that consists of grape growing in harmony and respect the environment - Demeter is the institution responsible for the certification in the U.S.A.
The property is situated 140 miles of San Francisco, in Redwood Valley - Mendocino, having above of it the spring of the Russian River - important river that influences the local climate and it is a name of one of the AVAs.
We arrived little before the sunset and went straight to "explore" the place. The property did not seem big and it was well organized. It gives the idea of a family business where everyone is committed and proud of it.
Caroline is a charismatic person, who shows great enthusiasm for everything, including her enrollment in the business of the family. She lives harmoniously with Nature - as well as all its family and friends – as a result, to have a organic and biodynamic culture is a natural option – very suitable to the Californian style as well.
She showed us the vineyards, winery, tasting room and, kindly gave some bottles of wine for us. We accepted her invitation to join them for dinner.
We meet Caroline’s sister and friends and chatted about almost anything, always with the company of Carolina’s favorite: Chardonnay (the country’s favorite wine, apparently).
The company was excellent, the chat great, the food a delight (vegetarian, to please the great majority) and the wine - I must admit - very good! With a brief period of aging in barrels of oak, the Chardonnay (2005) remembers vanilla and is a good representative of the variety, in a very American style to make it and to appreciate it.
I had the opportunity to learn how engaged the locals are with the wine business and its sustainable development, always compromised with quality and attend to trends, technology and market.
We were gifted with some of the Frey’s: Syrah 2005; White Zinfandel 2005; Sauvignon Blanc 2005; Sangiovese 2004; Gewurztraminer 2005 and Petite Shiraz 2004, which is growing in importance in the American market – Petite Shiraz is a grape of misty identity, it seems to have more than one grape variety a involved in its origin; it is source of tannin in wines, many times mixed to the less strong Zinfandel (cast that it is registered mark of the country).
It was a very pleasant visit and I came back hugely happy to San Francisco for meeting very genuine and friendly people with which I share interest for wine, perhaps, in different levels, but similar intensity for sure.
ENOTOURISM
California is the 4th biggest producer of wine of the world, behind only of France, Italy and Spain. 90% of this production is consumed inside the United States. As the internal demand is high, the prices in general are raised and they are not very competitive in the external market. 'Wine Clubs' are popular and they offer exclusive promotions to the members, which pay in advance to join them.
In almost all California wine is produced, from Mexico to the Oregon, since mountains of Sierra Nevada to the Pacific Ocean, it can be found vineyards and wineries. The desert seems to be the only exception.
With a wealthy economy (California would be 5th richest country if it was independent from USA), a modern position in relation of many subjects and a conscientious preservation of its history, California is a state that remembers the past, enjoys the present with an eye on the future.
All kind of service is very good, showing the consciousness about the money it generates associated to the friendly and cordial attitude that the Californians have - in its great majority.
All of these combined with a “Mediterranean style” climate makes this a place of destination for many foreigners and many… many Americans. There is a big diversity of tourist attraction, where all find one reason to visit it, at least.
Enotourism is one of the options and for many wineries it is an important activity for their trade market, considering that most of the small proprieties sell the production directly to consumers.
The visits can be made individually or in a group - in the great majority organized by travel agencies. The last one was my first option to explore the Wine Country.
The 17th of January was the day of my excursion to the wineries with the Extranomical Adventures, Inc.; an agency that organizes visits in small groups (what considered ideal, therefore it prevented a mass of people and it was cheaper than to rent limousine - option of many).
The group was small and all of the 11 people seem to be over 30 years old. Except myself, they were traveling in couples, the majority Americans; however the crew had Australians and Scottish.
VIANSA WINERY
The first visit was to the Viansa Winery in the region of Carneros, no longer than one hour away from San Francisco.
Because of the proximity to the Bay of San Francisco, the fog of the morning and the cold breezes of the afternoon are an influence in the climate of Carneros. The landscape of Carnero is low and dense. Two types of ground are present: clay and loam. These ground tend to influence in the vigor of the vines and to supply with the necessary nutrients without growing in excess.
The great stars of Carneros are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
As well as many enterprises Viansa has its roots in a distant land and is owned by Italian immigrant’s family who once dreamed of America making their dream to come true. They seem to have made it.
You have the impression of being in an Italian Villa and at Viansa the importance of the wine as a complement to food is, literally, visible. As much as wine, the place also produces, jellies, salsas, gravies that are sold in the market where the bar for degustation is located. In addiction, the Wine Menu always suggests a good paring with the Shop List.
After a brief introduction on the place, its history and activity, we visited the cellar where the wines mature. Afterwards, we went straight to the bar to taste 4 wines chosen for the house, all of them very high in alcohol:
1) 2005 - Arneis - US$ 22.50 (14.3% ABV)
Arneis is the grape variety originaly from the region of Piemont, in Italy. Rarely found in California. It presents a coloration yellow-lemon and has aromas of kiwi, rasp and ripe pineapple.
2) 2004 - Prindelo, Sonoma County – US$ 35 (15,5% ABV)
It showed a purple color. This is a cut wine, with blackberry aroma. In the mouth it is dry and has chocolate tones.
3) 2005 - Imbianco – US$ 11 (15,6% ABV)
Wine for dessert, made from 99% of the grape Aleatico and 1% of the Teroldigo, has a delicate flavor of strawberries and bergamot.
4) 2005 - "Pocamio" Aleatico – US$ 19.50 (14,5% ABV)
Aleatico is a rare varietal. Off-Dry, with sharp aroma of strawberry and blackberry. It is a soft wine, ready to drink.
I was intrigued with the wines off-dry and sweet, because they had high level of alcohol. So then, I asked the sommeliére if they used Chapitalization, which was answered me vagely that they interrupted the fermentation process, leaving residual sugar. Well, as the great majority of the wines it presents superior alcoholic graduation 14% of the volume, it gave me the impression that the grapes of the property produce a natural sugar out of ordinary…
Before jumping on the car, I could observe the employees of the property (that they are contracted exclusively for this seasonal service), doing the winter cutting.
MADONNA ESTATE
The second visit was to the Madonna Estate also in Carneros. This establishment; in its fourth generation of a family descending of Italians, in the United States since 1913; produces organic wines and has practice a system non-conventional for the region of California: Dry Farming. In this system irrigation is not used - necessary in the region due to low rainfall level. The irrigation is only used in the first year of growth of the vine and later he is suspended, causing to a "stress" of the plant that, in water search in the subsoil, concentrates the flavors in the grape, resulting in very small berries. To facilitate the process, 'St George' rootstock is used, which is not only resistant to drought but also to the Phylloxera.
The beginning of the visit was in the area where the wines are stored to rest in barrels of oak (American or French, depending on you influence them wanted in the wine). While our guide - an experienced expert of the subject - explained the system of production of the winery, another employee filled up the barrels with wine, necessary due the natural process of evaporation that the wine suffers.
An enlightening commentary was in relation to the expression “Estate" in the labels of the wines, that it identifies a product whose grapes are exclusively grown in the property.
The wines, good examples of the quality that a organic production can offer, were enjoined in the room reserved for it and also where the shop is located (following the model of the great majority of the wineries):
1) 2004 - Estate Chardonnay - USS 24.50
Fermented in barrels of French oak, this wine has a period of rest in its sediment (sur lie), presenting a creamy sensation in the mouth and aromas of pear and apple.
2) 2004 - Estate Pinot Noir - USS 28.50
The wine has aging of nine months in barrels of oak that is noticed in the mouth, having an aroma of red fruits.
3) 2001 - Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - USS 34.00
The product has its crushing and fermentation in stainless steel tanks and after, ages in barrels of oak for 18 months. It presents blackberry aromas, cassis and vanilla.
4) 2005 - Estate Riesling - USS 21.00
A wine to be drunk young that presents floral aromas with peach characteristics, pear and honey.
From a total of 13 wines in the actual list, 2 had already been completely sold out and 9 were exclusively for sales directly in the property, remaining 2 for external sale - with addition of costs of taxes and transport.
KIRKLAND RANCH WINERY
Kirkland is a property in Napa Valley that reminds the "old west" style. The owners, who were farmers before discovering the great opportunity for grape growing could be in California, kept the "cowboy" style in the propriety with stuffed animals ‘decorating’ the tasting room. As you can work out, they are not organic growers neither biodynamic fans.
In a style “straight forward”, we were direct to the tasting room. The very little I learnt about the property was from the information told by our driver-guide and, for the visitation (self-guided) into the corridors of the main building where, between photos from the farming past, the windows showed a modern winery.
The history of the Kirkland is similar to many others in the region, where farmers and or other high capital holders had glimpsed the vitiviniculture potential of the region and invested money and effort to build a new business.
High investment is a local characteristic, due the amount of money to be invested and the long term return in profits.
To establish a wine business in the "new west" is necessary to be "riding", not a horse, but loads of money.
The wines presented were:
1) 2003 - Kirkland Ranch Chardonnay Napa Valley - US$ 20.00
It is one Estate wine that ages 12 months in barrels of oak and rests in its residues resulting in a wine with flavor of vanilla and citric aromas and apple.
2) 2002 - Kirkland Rach Sangiovese Napa Valley - USS 20.00
Is a blended wine (90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot). It receives 24 months from oak and presents a cured aroma and spices. Its color is not deep and is light in tannins.
3) NV Agape Late Harvest Wine Napa Valley - USS 40.00
Is a dessert wine, made from grapes Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc affected by ' noble rot ', It has more than one year blended (non-vintage). It has a good balance and it presents tropical aromas of ripe peach, pineapple and fruits.
4) 2002 - Kirkland Ranch Estate Syrah - USS 30.00
It is aged by 20 months in barrels. It is an intense wine in aromas and flavors, with characteristics of spices, chocolate and vanilla.
5) 2002 - Kirkland Ranch Pinot Noir Napa Valley - US$ 32.50
This wine was a personal choice and it did not disappoint. It is a good unit of the variety, with aroma of plums and in the mouth it presents cherry with a vanilla finishing, spices and wood.
After this visit we finished our day in the Wine Country and, the group - satisfied with the experience - returned to San Francisco after 7 hours of trip.
A BEAUTIFUL DAY
January, 20; a sunny Saturday (no surprise and completely joy) with mild climate for an unexpectedly cold winter; I headed again to the Wine Country to carry out he visits that had made me to delay my ticket, booked to leave San Francisco days ago.
Booked visits in 2 wineries, one at 11.30h and another one two hours later, I also had time to include another one after those and, to have a picnic for lunch, always in the company of my Brazilian friend Flavio.
I cautiously chose the places that I would like to visit in my last day in California.
The first one was a reference from Alder; whose they keep excellent blog on wines; named Piña Cellars - among others wineries.
The second winery was for historical reasons: Stags' Leap Winery.
And last but not least, was a decision made on the day after an invitation from a couple that visited Piña at the same time we did and worked occasionally at Robert Sinskey Vineyards.
A booking is highly recommended to avoid disappointment. Some establishments do not charge the visit or tasting, however, in this in case one expects that you buy product in exchange, which can be expensive in comparison to the other wineries.
The wineries that I visited are in the Silverado Trail where more than 35 properties are spread for the highway that runs parallel with the highway "29".
Around 25 different varieties are cultivated in the region, where Cabernet Sauvignon the main star. You can see well known names from the highway, such as Mumm; Clos Du Val and Stag's Leap.
The scenery is pretty, it has its West raised with some rocks from a time where volcanoes existed in the region and the temperature has 10° of difference between the day and the night.
PIÑA CELLARS
We were welcomed in the winery for a young gentleman, who already has a lot of experience in the area and currently studies viniculture, with projects to have an work experience South Africa.
Piña is a family business; however it has an interest to bring young professionals from the market - as in the case of our host - because they bring knowledge and experiences with them.
Piña has its activities divided: one for the vineyard and another one to the winery, with different administration and each one with its proper employees. They aim to focus the necessary attention to each one in particular.
The visit initiated with tasting of units of its excellent Cabernet Sauvignon: 2004, 2005 and 2006 - being the two last ones extracted directly from the barrels. It was incredible to taste the good balance that the wine has, with rare smooth tannin for such young wine. This is a peculiarity of this region of Napa Valley and is very well accepted.
The visit could summarize it this - what it was not bad - however; as usually it happens when a genuine interest for the subject is demonstrated; it was beyond and we has an extra "tour" in the property in the company of our guide who answered to my doubts and curiosities (always, always many).
Piña has a production relatively small e thus wants to remain itself, preserving the quality of its products.
I bought a unit of the Cabernet Sauvignon (2004) that was not cheap (US$ 74) and represented well the idea of boutique wine.
The visit delayed more than we first planed and it was already time to go. Lunch break, we looked for a place for our picnic and had it in that amazing Valley of Napa.
STAGS' LEAP WINERY
There is a legend which says that a stag ran away from aboriginals who chased it on the rocky mounts that make background scenery at Stags' Leap leaped from one rock to another leaving the hunters behind.
This is one of the versions for the origin of the name of this amazing place in Napa Valley. So valuable name that there was legal battle for the rights to use this name.
This is the field which owns the vines that produced the Stag’s Leap (1973, Cabernet Sauvignon) that in the "1976 Paris Wine Tasting" faced Boudreaux in the famous competition.
The Frenchmen, not convinced of the Californian quality, argued that their wines had not reached their best, because those wines needed some years to soften tannins - It is a Californian natural characteristic for having a good balance of tannins, even in their early ages.
To clarify any injustice to the Vin de Bordeaux, another competition with blind taste was carried after 30 years later and, the winner of 2006 was: oui, oui... the Californians.
The property, full of history and stories, was sold partially later one. The new owner got a large and productive propriety and... the original name. To the old owner the famous land was left, the moral right to use the name and a fight for the right to the use it.
The decision was that both could use the name, however, in different forms: the original is called Stag's Leap Wine Cellars and the new one Stags' Leap Winery. I visited the winery of the new proprietor however, oldest, where all original winery’s structure was restored - preserving its characteristics - and one another new was added.
We were welcomed in a large and fancy room where our guide counted a little of the history of the place and where we tried 4 samples of its wines:
1) 2005 - Napa Valley Viogner - US$25
Citric aromas and flavors with peach characteristics.
2) 2005 - Napa Valley Chardonnay – US$ 28
High acidity with notes of orange and cantaloupes, vanilla and clove in the finishing.
3) 2003 - Napa Valley Merlot – US$ 31
Vibrant aroma of black berries, cacao, nutmeg and vanilla.
4) Ne Cede Malis, Rhone Blend – US$ 75
Aroma of black berries and at the end remembers orange peel.
We ended the visit exploring the place, with a glass of wine in hand while the sun was getting ready to disappear in the horizon. What a day! And, I had not finished yet...
ROBERT SINSKEY VINEYARDS
During the tasting to the Piña Cellars, with very little visitors sharing the moment with us, we had the privilege of a pleasant company of a couple (she is Brazilian and he is American), who we talked and shared our views about wine’s passion with and then, they invited us to visit them in a neighbor winery where they work occasionally.
As a result we discovered the Robert Sinskey Vineyards, a producer of excellent organic wines, which originally intended to focus its attention exclusively to the Pinot Noir, however, it surroundings of the land cried out (as the same proprietor it declares) and it surrendered to the king of the region: Cabernet Sauvignon.
Hopefully it continues producing both, among other varieties - all organic, not only for the reason of being eco-friendly but also for believing that these vineyards produce better wines and with more vibrant flavors. I also believe it: their Pinot Noir was the best I have ever tried!
The environment is informal and extremely pleasant, where you feel like between old mates. In the tasting bar we had the perfect match with canapés, prepared for the wife of the proprietor, Maria Helm Sinskey, who is the director of culinary in the business, author of the book "The Vineyard Kitchen", and one great chef.
Many of the people who assist in the 'bar' of the winery, make it now and then and have other activities also related to the wine. Between a chat, a sip of wine, one canapé, the time was passing and the bar closed, then it was hour to go, again.
We say farewell to our 'new-old-mates' and took our way back to San Francisco. The visit was so pleasant that I forgot to write down information about the wines we tasted (Pinot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc), however, I still remember the good balance, aromas and fruits that had sailed in my mouth. They were left as a souvenir in my memory.
I left California in the next day, early in the morning to my flight for New York. I did not have time to enjoy the sunny Sunday; however, I carried with me all good feelings and impression that California gave me.
I learnt that one cannot judge something without knowing it or… tasting it.
Nice to meet you, California!
Cheers,
Marcia Amaral