New Zealand V - Round the Wine World Trip, 2007

What follows in the coming reports and pictures is exactly what is includes in my previous blog http://wineworld.spaces.live.com/
The idea of bringing the reports to new space is mainly to keep the information in only one place.
I have not done any changes to the original posts, because I believe that every experience has its particular moment.
Perhaps, today I would have other opinion on some issues, but what I reproduce here belongs to that time.
In this Part 11, I report my experience in Central Otago and Canterbury, South Island – New Zealand, on June 2007.
Please, click on the photos to see the slide show and double click to go Picasa and see the map location.

Central Otago

Central Otago is New Zealand's highest and the world's most southerly wine region. ‘Wines with Altitude’ is the slogan of one winemaker. It is also New Zealand's only true continental climate with greater extremes of daily and seasonal temperatures than are found in any of the country's maritime regions.

Summers are hot and dry, with autumns cool and generally dry with cold nights. Rain falls evenly throughout the year and averages from 325-700mm per annum, generally increasing to the west. The relatively low rainfall results in a low incidence of botrytis and other fungal disease reducing the need for spraying. The large diurnal temperature variation, contributes to flavor intensity, gives depth of color and stability to the wines.

Vines are susceptible to frost in the growing season and as a result most vineyards are on warm north-facing slopes which promote cold air drainage. On flat sites wind machines, water sprinkles and misting systems or other frost protection measures are adopted.

Central Otago's vineyards are located on a variety of soils ranging from windblown sands to heavy silt loams and weathered schist. Most of the soils are derived from moess or alluvial deposits, often with underlying gravels allowing free drainage. To the west some of the soils are developed on glacial outwash or moraine and there are even small pockets of man-made soils resulting from hydraulic sluicing during the gold mining days of 140 years ago. Each of these soil types has a distinct influence on the growth and flavors in the grapes.

A new, but aggressively expanding wine area, Central Otago is now New Zealand's seventh largest wine region. Pinot Noir is the dominant grape variety (85% in 2007), a status that seems certain to be maintained if demand and accolades are any measure. Chardonnay ranks second with Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling a distant third and fourth. The wines of Central Otago have a purity, intensity and vibrancy that seems totally appropriate to anyone who has visited the region and breathed the pure mountain air.

Source: http://www.nzwine.com/regions and www.centralotagowinemap.com

Central Otago is a region of heart-stopping beauty. Tourists flock in for summer adventure and winter skiing, for the amazing scenery and, now, for the wine and food.

Queenstown is the most popular choice and where I stayed longest in the region: 5 days, after a day in the stunning village by the lake with the same name: Wanaka – where vineyards run down to the shore of the lake against a backdrop of snow-clad mountains and glaciers.

The only visit I made while in the region was in Wanaka, if that can be called a visit.

As the only winery in the village: Rippon Vineyard and Winery was closed for the season, I just walked among the vines while on a track by the lake.

It has its rows of vines marching down to the water's edge and its spectacular view of the Southern Alps.

I also tried on of its wines, bought in a local supermarket (Riesling 2006, $30), which I drunk very slowly to savor at full its beauty.

The vineyard is run on strict organic and biodynamic principles, fermentation is by wild yeasts and the wine is not filtered or fined.

The wine label resumes of the way the business is run and its environment:

"Schist gravels, terminal moraine, clean air, crystal water, windflowers, noble vines, hot days, cool nights. The family run property is cared of as a diverse and dynamic whole, fostering wines that speak to us in earnest of their dreamscape surrounds."

Their Pinot Noir is also very well known for its beauty. However, $30 was all that my budged allowed me to try and also because the Pinot wasn't even sold at the supermarket.

No regrets, their Riesling was the best I had came across while in the country.


My other experience in the region was in Queenstown - a gorgeous town, surrounded by ski fields and snow capped mountains. It was buzzing with the winter festival that warms up the place with events to suit everyone.

In my second day in the town I visited a store called Wine Tastes – Central Otago Wine Experience, located in the heart of Queenstown.

There you can taste over 80 different wines in one convenient location to 'try before you buy'.

It showcases the largest range of Central Otago's wines alongside a selection of the very best New Zealand wines.

It uses the state-of-the-art Italian designed Enomatic Wine Serving System that allows you to select any of the wines available.

All that you have to do is to pay before you try and you will have a card with credits to be spent on what you choose to taste.

It was a good way to try different producers in one only place and also cheaper that a visit to the wineries. I spent $30, had a salami's platter, and tried 6 wines:
Aurum, Riesling 2006, $24/bottle;
Chard Farm, Pinot Gris 2006, $34/bottle;
Felton Road, Chardonnay 2006, $34/bottle;
Mondillo, Pinot Noir 2006, $47/bottle;
Quartz Reef, Pinot Noir 2004, $44/bottle;
Aurara, Syrah 2005, $31/bottle.

Those samples showed why the region is building a reputation for Pinot Noir; which was very good indeed and perfectly matched the salami; and also Riesling that delivered rose petals and lime aromas and, was the perfect pair for a Thai or Chinese meal - not that I had all of that food, but I let my mind to imagine it.

At the place I read something that resume my idea about wine:
"Wine is an experience of a time... of a place... of the people we share it with... It should be savored."
Nothing else must be said.

Waipara

Less than an hour's drive north of Christchurch, rows of vines suddenly crowd in on State Highway 1 as its cuts through the heart of the Waipara Valley. The extensive plantings feed the growing demand for vines reflecting the area's singular climate and soils*.

*I found an interesting explanation, at the Christchurch Museum, about how the soil in the region was formed:
Ingredients: Limestone, Earthquake, Rainwater, Seeds.
Bring flat limestone under sea to the surface with a well-placed earthquake. Sprinkle frequently with water and apply mile heat for 8-12 hours every 24h. Sprinkle the surface with seeds and yeast. Allow to bake and ferment for 5000 to 10000 years and shake with earthquake every thousand years or so. This is a rare, nutritious and delicious dessert.

To the east Waipara Valley is separated from the ocean (Pegasus Bay) by a range of hills which protect it from the cooling winds of the Pacific. To the west lie the Southern Alps (Main Divide), from whence the region's hot north-west winds derive, resulting in a very prolonged ripening period. This promotes intense flavor development and optimal ripeness, while retaining good natural acidity.

One can find a wide range of varietals from Gewurztraminer to Malbec, but the variety which is stands out there is Riesling.

The winemakers are doing their work to make the most of this versatile variety. They believe the Waipara Valley to be a very special place for this varietal. The warm days and cold nights provide ripe, rich fruit while retaining knife edge acidity.

I visited and stayed in Waipara from the 7th of July for a week, just before my departure from New Zealand. It was the last but the richest experience.

Before heading to the valley, I made contacts with the local wineries and thankfully got three invitations for visit and the opportunity to see the business from behind the tasting bar.

When I got in the village it was early morning of a raining Friday. I came by train from Christchurch and left at its train station – probably the smallest one I have ever arrived, perhaps for being Waipara the tiniest village I have ever been to, as well.

I accommodated myself at the backpacker - a very unique one, where the rooms where actually renovated old trains wagon - and headed to my first experience: Mud House.

MUD HOUSE WINE COMPANY

Nestled in the heart of this promising valley is the impressive Mud House Winery & Cafe complex. It has a massive building to accommodate the cafe and restaurant, however one have a very cozy feeling when there, perhaps for the big fireplace in the restaurant.

It offers a selection of award winning wines, creative cuisine & a warm friendly atmosphere - which I confirmed along the day.

On my arriving I was welcomed in the place by the Cellar Manager, Tina George that had kindly accepted my request of having a working experience as a volunteer in their cellar door.

After a briefly chat, she introduced me to the one who would be my supervisor, teacher and guide through that day: Damien.

I had a wonderful day there; Damien is a very generous person which shared his knowledge as much as the busy cellar door allowed him to.

When I had got the idea of how to greet and serve the costumers I started helping him.

In fact, it was the first time that I put my little expertise about wine. My knowledge was used every time I served someone and had to explain of what I was purring to them. My relief was that the questions I wasn't able to answer where mainly about on topic: the winery itself, but then Damien was always around to save me.

It was a big test to me and I was extremely happy with the result and with the comments from my 'supervisor', saying that I was a 'natural', on what I agreed, because to talk about something I am passionate about, comes naturally.

I finished my 'shift' and went back to my 'wagon' to rest from a 'working day'. Well, one must be happy for that when it doesn't happen so often.




TORLESSE WINES

Next morning, sun shinning, cold chilling, I went to Torlesse Wines, located not far from my accommodation.

The winery's origins date back to the 1980s and it's now jointly owned by five families, including that of managing director and winemaker Kym Rayer. An Australian, Kym trained at Adelaide’s Roseworthy College decided in 1991 that his future lay in Waipara.

I met his wife, who was working at the cellar door that day, tried some of the wines (produced on two different ranges: Torlesse and Omihi Road for their best ones) and had a little talk about the winery and also myself. She gently offered to arrange with Kym to meet and maybe to have a drive around Waipara. That made me happy, because as a traveler on a low budged I could not afford renting a car to do so.

The 'tour' happened in following day. Kym took part of the Sunday to show me the Valley and vineyards, which was very informative and a great opportunity to see differences of landscape and soil.

We ended up our 'tour' in Torlesse Winery itself, where I found a train wagon, but at this time a cool place, once used to transport meat and now it has barrels resting in its low temperature, a very interesting and unique idea.




PEGASUS BAY WINERY

Between the 'tour' with Kym and the visit to his winery, there was a visit to Pegasus Bay Winery. That I tried to do by walking to the place, which seemed to be not far if looking on the map I had with me – never trust in distance showed in maps, they may not be accurate.

I ended up having a lift from... a police car. No, I am still a good girl and I haven't done anything wrong. What happened was that a policewoman seeing my face of frustration - for walking for so long – stopped the car to check if I was fine and I explained that all was fine, apart from the winery that seemed every second farthest. She offered a ride to there and for the first time in my life I was in a police's car – in the front seat of course and talking with the friendly kiwi cop.

She left me at the door of the winery and I asked me to drink the Riesling for her, as she was on duty and couldn't do it herself. No worries.

Pegasus Bay was founded in the mid-1980s by eminent Christchurch neurologist and wine judge Ivan Donaldson; it is still a very much family affair. It is the most distinguished of all Canterbury labels and also has a highly rated restaurant, which I haven't even dared to look at the menu, so I can not recommend. What I do recommend is visiting the toilet – serious! It has a funky style with remarkable, or not, statements about wine.

Well, before visiting the toilet I visited an even more interesting place: the cellar door. At this time the attraction was not on the wall, but on the glass.

Pegasus Bay was described by Cuisine Magazine as 'one of those wineries that seems incapable of making indifferent wine'.

That is easy to find out even before you opened the bottle, just looking at the labels, specially on the premium wines, whose have Christine's (wife's owner) passion for opera reflected on their names: Aria (Late picked Riesling); Maestro (Merlot/Malbec); Finale (Noble Chardonnay); Encore (Noble Riesling) and Prima Donna (the best name that one could think for: Pinot Noir).

My favorite sample was Aria ($33,50), a sweet but not cloying finish dessert wine, with some botrytis influence, which I wrote the following comment on my note book: Too good to spit.

Their wine range is very much influenced by the 'old world' style and have a careful and passionate family touch combined with high level of knowledge and dedication of all those involved. The good result has been showed in the domestic and international market.

After finished my mission of tasting all the wines available, included the one for the kind police lady, I made my long long way back to the village.




WAIPARA SPRINGS

After a 'day off', I went to spend some time with the lovely family of Waipara Springs. I felt on of them, as they treated as one of theirs.

Andrew Moore, the General Manager and son of the founder: Bruce Moore, invited me to help them at the winery, as a volunteer. So for a couple of days I was close to the work carried out by Duncan and Frank, the winemakers.

Waipara Springs vineyard, planted on a prehistoric lake bed on the Waipara Valley floor, is one of the oldest in the region, with the first vines planted in 1982.

It is a boutique vineyard and winery, dedicated to quality.

The varieties grown include Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, with young Merlot and Gewurztraminer vines producing small quantities.

The days which followed were a valuable and unforgettable experience, not only for the cellar work involved and the knowledge shared with me, but also for the opportunity of being among those who are years ahead in knowledge and experience.

I had the chance to be in meetings of winemakers, when I made sure to be quiet and register as many information as I could.

The most important one was the one hold at the Waipara Springs premises, where almost all of the winemakers of the region were present.

They got together for the afternoon of the 12th of July, to present their 2007's Riesling - variety that the region is try to consolidate a reputation for.

The room was completely full and the participants accommodate themselves to blind taste samples of every winery and comment on them.

The idea was to know the standard of production and help each other to reach the highest level of quality possible, sharing knowledge and giving suggestions.

A wise example of conduct for many businesses included some in the wine field.

Waipara was my last contact with New Zealand wine regions and it couldn't had being better. I am very grateful for having the opportunity of been there and specially thankful for those who had me among them.



Thank you New Zealand!
Cheers,
Marcia Amaral